Conscious Choice: Of Cabbages and Kings

July 2008 | Healthy Living :: Savor the Season

Of Cabbages and Kings

By Terra Brockman

The time has come,” the Walrus said, “to talk of many things,
Of shoes — and ships — and sealing wax; Of cabbages and kings…”
— Lewis Carroll

July is the month to enjoy the first amazingly sweet, crisp cabbages of the season. When Lewis Carroll’s walrus spoke of “cabbages and kings,” most everyone took it as a bit of nonsense. But it was indeed the ancient Greeks who invoked Jupiter, king of the gods, to explain the origin of cabbage. In his struggle to explain two oracles who contradicted each other, Jupiter began to sweat, and from a drop of his divine perspiration, a cabbage sprang up.

That celestial origin should have placed cabbage in the upper echelons of the vegetable pantheon. But the humble cabbage, which has served humankind so well over millennia, has suffered much fear and loathing at the dinner table, mainly due to extreme over-cooking. The fact is that fresh cabbage is indeed a divine vegetable — delicious and nutritious — particularly when you get it fresh from local farmers.

The main types of cabbage you will find at local markets are red, green (round, flattened, or pointy-headed), Chinese (also known as Napa) and Savoy (sometimes called Cavolo Verza, Italian cabbage, or Chou de Milan). All are high in fiber, minerals and in vitamins A and C. As one of the cruciferous vegetables, cabbage is said to provide some protection against certain cancers due to its high levels of the antioxidants beta carotene and sulforaphane.

Savoy and Chinese cabbages are good entry points for those who do not yet count themselves cabbage-lovers. These varieties have a softer texture, milder taste and their puckered pale green leaves serve to hold onto the butter or olive oil you sauté them in.

A brief sauté or steaming is exactly what fresh cabbage needs to preserve its sweet and delicate texture and flavor. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can stuff cabbage leaves or pickle them in salt and hot red pepper to make a Korean kimchi. But I think the most summery and refreshing thing to do is to make an updated coleslaw that mixes sweet crisp cabbage with grated carrots, fennel, onion and/or radishes. Marjoram, thyme or cilantro also make great additions. My dressing of choice is a simple vinaigrette or a homemade mayonnaise. Simply slice everything thinly, toss and enjoy!

Lively Summer Coleslaw (adapted from Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse Vegetables)

1 medium cabbage (about 3 pounds), outer leaves removed

1 large jalapeño pepper

1/2 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice

3 to 4 teaspoons red wine vinegar

1/4 to 1/3 cup olive oil

1-1/2 teaspoons sea salt or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper or to taste

Large pinch of sugar or to taste

1. Quarter the cabbage through the core, then finely shred, using a sharp knife. (I find that the food processor tends to turn cabbage to mush.) Place shredded cabbage in a large bowl or pot.

2. Cut open the jalapeño, discard the seeds, and dice it fine. Add diced jalapeno, onion and cilantro to the cabbage and toss to mix. Sprinkle with the lime juice, vinegar, oil, salt, pepper and sugar and toss to coat.

3. Let slaw sit for 1 hour, tossing occasionally. Drain, taste and adjust seasonings. Wait another hour. Serve at room temperature.

Terra Brockman is the founder of The Land Connection, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland, training new farmers, and connecting consumers with local food. Visit thelandconnec tion.org to learn more. She helps her family raise organic fruits and vegetables in central Illinois. Visit henrysfarm.com.

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