Conscious Choice: Asparagus Rising

May 2008 | Healthy Living :: Savor the Season

Asparagus Rising

By Terra Brockman

Like the first burst of tree blossoms or the twitter of returning songbirds, asparagus is a herald of spring. The sturdy stalks thrusting up from the wet earth do seem a sort of resurrection, which takes place, quite fittingly, around the same time as Easter and Passover.

While most of summer’s vegetables are still being coddled in the greenhouse, or only just beginning to send their roots down into the still cold soil, the perennial asparagus is bursting with the very first local flavors of the new season. (Other perennials to seek out at the first markets this month include sorrel, nettles, chives, and rhubarb.)

A stalk of asparagus is as dazzling as any iris, with the same delightful combination of bright green and dusky lavender. The purple bracts pull the eye upwards, pointing in ever closer formation toward the tight head, which, if left alone, will mature through the summer into feathery fronds.

As beautiful as asparagus is, when harvested at its peak the taste is even better. I sometimes prowl my brother’s asparagus patch near the stream and surreptitiously snap off a juicy spear or two to eat a capella. The broken ends bleed droplets of slightly sweetened water, and the spear tastes like the season itself — green and earthy. As soon as it is cut however, flavor and nutrition both deteriorate quickly. If all you’ve ever eaten is the asparagus flown in from far-flung places, you’ve only known a pale version of the real thing. (You’ve also contributed to the demise of U.S. asparagus farmers. Check out this short video on this topic).

You can do a lot with asparagus, but when it is in season, it is best to do very little — and to do it quickly. Emperor Augustus, when he wanted something done, would proclaim: Velocium quam asparagi coquantur — “Let it be done quicker than you would cook asparagus.”

The season for local asparagus begins in mid-April and is at its height in May, when you will find local asparagus in many stores and at the very first farmer’s markets. But it sells out swiftly, and by June is gone for the year. The specific date for the end of asparagus season is contained in the traditional German rhyme: Kirschen rot, spargel tot, “Cherries red, asparagus dead.”

But rest assured that asparagus will be resurrected next spring — and like all short-lived things, is all the more cherished for its transience.

Roasted Asparagus with Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar

1 pound fresh asparagus, rinsed and base ends snapped off where they naturally break (usually 1-2 inches up)

1 - 2 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar (the best you can afford)

1. Preheat oven to 500°F. In a large shallow baking pan or cookie sheet, toss asparagus with oil, salt and pepper.

2. Roast asparagus, shaking pan every 2-3 minutes, until tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

3. Remove pan from oven and drizzle vinegar over asparagus, shaking pan to combine well. The best way to eat this is with your fingers, rolling each spear to coat with vinegar. (Even Emily Post says this is OK.)

Terra Brockman is the founder of The Land Connection, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland, training new farmers, and connecting consumers with local food. Visit thelandconnection.org to learn more. She helps her family raise organic fruits and vegetables in central Illinois. Visit henrysfarm.com.

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